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Video Noise

November 2009

I Want to Make My Picture Better: Part One

So you have this HDTV and you’ve been watching it for a while, but you’re getting a nagging feeling that the picture isn’t as good as it could be -- and you’re not sure how to improve it. In fact, you’re not even sure you’d know if it was better once you start messing with things. If that sounds familiar, this month’s and next month’s columns will provide some guidance.

First, let’s define better. In my world, better means more accurate. That is, the TV more accurately represents the movie or TV program as it was originally captured. Video is very well defined in terms of quality. There are standards for colors and shades of gray; shadow detail should be visible and not crushed into black; highlights should be visible and not blown out or too dark; and color shouldn’t be too intense, unless that’s how the movie was intended to look. Every shade of gray should be as close as possible to the D65 point, which in the world of xy color coordinates is x=.3127 and y=.328. You may have heard that 6500K is the ideal color temperature, and it is. But color temperature doesn’t account for green. In fact, you can achieve a color temperature of 6500K and still have way too much or too little green. So instead of obsessing over color temperature, we should focus on the D65 point, which ensures that red, green, and blue are all in proportion, producing proper shades of neutral gray and white. There are test patterns for measuring grayscale steps and color, while other patterns help you adjust your controls by eye so you can improve their accuracy without actual measurement.

To improve your picture, you have four options. You can:

  • Adjust the user-menu controls by eye
  • Adjust the user-menu controls with the assistance of a test/setup disc in your Blu-ray or DVD player
  • Purchase a colorimeter and software, and learn how to calibrate your own TV
  • Hire a professional calibrator

This month, we’ll cover the first two options.

Adjusting your menu controls without assistance

I’d like to offer guidance for adjusting your controls, but it’s a real crap shoot when you have no reliable reference. All I can suggest is that you disable all the controls in the user menu that have automatic or dynamic in their name. Set the sharpness control to about half of the factory default value. If the factory setting is 50, set it to 25. If the control is set to zero and can be lowered to -30 and raised 30, you’ll never really know what the best setting is without a test pattern. Ultimately, a test pattern is the only way to know where it should be set. Sometimes zero is the right setting; other times it isn’t, but only a test pattern will reveal the appropriate setting.

Any noise reduction or NR controls can almost always be set to Low (or On if your only choices are On and Off). A few years ago these controls were so severe that they often did more harm than good, but manufacturers have started providing settings that can be used without harming good images. Noise-reduction settings typically operate only on standard-definition programming, and conservative use of them in newer video displays can actually be helpful. That said, setting them to Medium or High will often impair quality. If you have a mode called Cinema, Movie, THX, Pure, or Theater, select it. And if you have color-temperature settings like Warm, Neutral, Standard, and Cool, the Warm setting will often be the most accurate. Be aware, however, that if you’re used to the Cool setting, which makes the picture too blue, the Warm setting might seem overly yellow for the first few days. Neutral may be the best choice for a few HDTVs, but try Warm first. If it still seems too yellow after three days, switch to Neutral.

Factory settings are almost always terrible for image quality, and modes named Vivid or Dynamic are likely to be the worst choices. Again, we’re assuming here that the highest-quality image is the most accurate image. So if you’re watching football, the grass, uniforms, crowd, and sky should look like what you’d see if you were at the game. But looking accurate doesn’t always mean looking great. Take night games, for example. Some stadium lights will make grass look blue -- even in person -- so adjusting the image to create a vivid green will likely throw off the rest of the picture.

Adjusting your menu controls with a setup disc

If you’re not very technical, the Monster (yes, that Monster) HDTV Calibration Wizard setup disc (DVD format) is probably your best choice. Everything it helps you with relies on simple photos or simple moving images. You won’t learn much about your HDTV, but it will help you adjust some controls much better than if you had no help.

If you want to learn more about your HDTV and how images are made, as well as how controls will change the images, Digital Video Essentials: HD Basics (Blu-ray) is by far the best disc out there. Shop around and you’ll find it for as little as $16 from some reliable mail-order sources. As an example, the disc will walk you through setting the brightness control, and if you ever need to recheck it, you’ll be able to watch the tutorial again or go directly to a test pattern.

200911_spears_munsil.jpg (23584 bytes)If you already know the setup basics and you want a more technical disc, Spears & Munsil’s High Definition Benchmark: Blu-ray Edition is about $25 at most mail-order outlets. It doesn’t offer all the behind-the-scenes information and explanations that you’ll find on the Digital Video Essentials disc, but if you already understand the basics, the Spears & Munsil disc is the next level, technically.

When you use one of these discs in a disc player, it’s important not to have made any adjustments to the disc player that will alter the video. The machine should simply send the disc’s data to the video display. This doesn’t always happen, as some players have setup menu choices that can alter the video in undesirable ways. For example, some Sony Blu-ray players let you choose between Theater Room, Standard Room, or Bright Room. Among these, the only setting that won’t change the video encoded on the disc is Standard Room, so you should never use the other settings. If you own a disc player and you aren’t sure what some of the settings are, or if they alter the video, you can search online owner forums for your particular machine and hopefully learn from other owners what your settings will do and whether they’re useful.

Next month we’ll take a look at your remaining options for improving your picture.

. . . Doug Blackburn
db@hometheatersound.com

Archived Articles

  • October 2009 - LEDs in Video Displays: More Than One Type Can Be Confusing
  • September 2009 - What Makes a Picture Good (Accurate) or Bad? Part Three: Color
  • August 2009 - What Makes a Picture Good (Accurate) or Bad? Part Two: Gamma
  • July 2009 - What Makes a Picture Good (Accurate) or Bad?
  • June 2009 - Your Home Theater's Sound: Killing Your Highs?
  • May 2009 - Getting the Most from Room-Correction Software
  • March 2009 - Crystal Ball Time Again
  • January 2009 - How to Kill a Home Theater System, Part Two: Use the Wrong AC Power Conditioner
  • December 2008 - How to Kill a Home Theater System, Part One: Don’t Use AC Power Conditioning
  • October 2008 - The Great Video Displays: My 2008 Picks
  • September 2008 - Save the Plasmas
  • July 2008 - Contrast Ratio
  • May 2008 - Gray Scale and Video Calibration
  • April 2008 - The Next Frontier for Home-Theater Video Displays
  • March 2008 - High-Definition Disc-Player Gotchas
  • January 2008 - When a Reference Isn't a Reference
  • December 2007 - What's So Different About Digital Video?
  • October 2007 - Hi-Def Movies by Mail: Great Idea, But You May Have Problems
  • September 2007 - Is Audyssey the Next Big Thing in Home Theater Audio?
  • July 2007 - Changing Film-Production Methods Improve Home Video
  • June 2007 - Getting the Most from SD DVD with Hi-Def Video Displays (Cheap HDMI Cables Too!)
  • April 2007 - What the Heck is a "Refurbished Unit," Anyway?
  • March 2007 - Format Wars: Blu-ray vs. HD DVD vs. Abstinence
  • February 2007 - Flat-Panel Displays: The State of the Art, Winter 2007
  • January 2007 - What You Don't Know about Fixed-Pixel Displays
  • December 2006 - 3-D, Now and Future
  • August 2006 - Home-Theater Bass and Subwoofers Revisited
  • June 2006 - Video Display News
  • May 2006 - A Rant on A/V Receivers and Separate Amplifiers
  • March 2006 - More High-Definition Optical Disc News
  • February 2006 - What Ever Happened to High-Definition Optical Discs?
  • January 2006 - Room Construction for Improved Acoustics and Soundproofing
  • December 2005 - Your Home-Theater Room: Considerations for High-Performance Video
  • November 2005 - Doug's Rules for Home Theater: Part Three -- More on Speakers
  • October 2005 - Doug's Rules for Home Theater: Part Two -- Speakers
  • September 2005 - Doug's Rules for Home Theater: Part One -- The Room
  • August 2005 - Progress for HDTV and DTV?
  • June 2005 - Obsolete Yet? Part Two: Video Displays
  • May 2005 - Obsolete Yet? Part One: Loudspeakers, Subwoofers, Power Conditioning
  • April 2005 - New Home-Theater Disc Formats
  • March 2005 - Getting Stereo and Surround Sound to Coexist
  • February 2005 - Goodbye DVD-Video, DVD-Audio, SACD -- Hello Hi-Def DVD
  • January 2005 - Getting the Most from a DVD-Audio Player’s 24/192 D/A Conversion
  • December 2004 - Home Theater Setup: Performance Considerations, Part Two
  • November 2004 - Home Theater Setup: Performance Considerations, Part One
  • October 2004 - Home Theater Expanded
  • September 2004 - The Dark Ages of High Definition
  • August 2004 - Optimizing Home Theater Loudspeaker Selection
  • June 2004 - HD-Capable vs. HD-Compatible Plasma Displays
  • May 2004 - Viewing Distance: Home Theater’s Forgotten Problem
  • April 2004 - Time and Distance In Your Home Theater
  • March 2004 - Assessing the Bass Performance of Surround-Sound Processors and Receivers
  • February 2004 - Does Your Next Video Display Need to Have a QAM Tuner?
  • December 2003 - LCoS and D-ILA Video Displays: Pros and Cons
  • November 2003 - LCD Video Displays: Pros and Cons
  • October 2003 - DLP Video Displays: Pros and Cons
  • September 2003 - So You Want Plasma?
  • August 2003 - Speaker Choices for Home Theater
  • July 2003 - Real-World HD-Capable Video Displays
  • June 2003 - I Got a Bad Hum
  • May 2003 - Connections and Interfaces: Part Two
  • March 2003 - Connections and Interfaces: Part One
  • February 2003 - Infrastructure and Digital/High-Definition TV
  • January 2003 - Matters of Resolution
  • December 2002 - Setting Speaker Distance
  • November 2002 - Integrating High-Quality Stereo with Home Theater
  • October 2002 - Budgeting a Home-Theater System for All-Around Performance
  • September 2002 - Basic TV Adjustment -- Part Two
  • August 2002 - Basic TV Adjustment -- Part One
  • July 2002 - Digital Video Interfaces: Where Are We Now?
  • June 2002 - Progressive-Scan DVD and High-Definition Video at Home -- The First Weeks
  • May 2002 - First-Hand Experiences with Digital and High-Definition TV
  • April 2002 - DIY Component-Video Cable
  • March 2002 - The Onkyo TX-DS989 A/V Receiver Upgrade -- Part Two
  • January 2002 - The Onkyo TX-DS989 A/V Receiver Upgrade -- Part One
  • December 2001 - Myths and Reality of Pan-and-Scan Viewing
  • November 2001 - Checkpoint Sound Alignment Systems Laser-Alignment Tools
  • October 2001 - Evaluating Progressive-Scan DVD Players -- Help is Here!
  • September 2001 - Progressive-Scan Video Explained
  • August 2001 - Interlaced Video Explained
  • June 2001 - Better Sound for Your Next Receiver/Processor
  • May 2001 - Home-Theater Systems Based on an A/V Receiver
  • April 2001 - Getting Started With Home Theater
  • March 2001 - Is One Subwoofer Enough?
  • February 2001 - Most Everything You Need to Know about Digital Cable TV
  • January 2001 - Subwoofers (and Bass) for Home Theater
  • December 2000 - DVD-Audio: Peeking Behind the Curtain
 


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